Forget about losing authenticity; A Mano also loses Roberto

Earlier this week, we told you how A Mano, the Neapolitan pizzeria in Ridgewood, had made some changes to its authentic pizzas in order to suit American tastes.

Today, we know why.

Owners were unhappy with the restaurant's overall performance under the direction of pizzaiolo and partner Roberto Caporuscio (left) and made a change.

"He's no longer here," said Jerry Turci, one of A Mano's owners. "And he's not coming back."

A Mano employees tell customers that Caporuscio is on a two-month vacation to Italy. But the imported brick pizza ovens are now being run by Gaetano Castaldo, who has 20 years of pizza making and training under his belt. He joined the restaurant a few weeks ago.

While the ingredients -- dough made with Caputo flour, imported olive oil, crushed San Marzano tomatoes with sea salt and fresh mozzarella cheese -- remain authentic, it's the cooking method that has changed the most.

Instead of the wood-fired oven sustaining 1,000-degree temperatures, the fire now keeps the temperature closer to 600. Pizzas now cook in two or three minutes instead of one. The difference, in most pizzas, is a crust that's crispy, not soft and chewy, as was the norm under Caporuscio. The pizzas also cook longer. [UPDATE ON JAN. 28: The oven temperature is unchanged, A Mano co-owner Fred Mortati said. But the pizzas are cooked longer than they would be in Naples, he said.]

The reason? "So customers will like it here," Castaldo said, translated through Fedrico Fridman, who was trained by Castaldo. But it's still mostly authentic, he suggested. Customers have been enthusiastic about the changes and business has improved, he added.

More changes will be taking place at A Mano as the restaurant celebrates its first birthday this month, Turci said, including an expanded menu.

We'll have more in The Record's Better Living section on Sunday.

Comments

[Ev]

Not a surprise, but certainly a shame.

[John]

Like I posted yesterday I was there on the 16th of Jan. and got the Margherita, it was great. I didn't notice much of a change, and STILL the best pizza. Is the 400 degrees really going to make that big of a difference?

[tommy]

yes, 400 degrees can make a world of difference. As can a different process and recipe for the dough. Time will tell how much this dumbing down impacts the product. the masses win...again.

[Ev]

I was there yesterday as well. There is a slight difference in the pizza, but at this point I'll continue to go to A Mano unless there is a more drastic change, as I know of no other place in northern NJ making this kind of pizza.

Separate of the food, the whole vibe of the place is different, and I noticed that change over my last few visits-before I heard that Roberto was away. They're closing "around 9," even on the weekends if they're not busy enough (although we weren't pushed out but did see 3 other parties turned away), and that is based on my experience + the reports of friends. The music they're playing is terrible, and the new manager who is on in the evening literally shuffles around the restaurant. Between his (audible) shuffling and his attitude, it's rather off-putting and seems in total contrast with the (original) feel of the restaurant.

I have brought many friends to A Mano and they've loved the place, some of them traveling 15+ miles to meet us there, but one of them told me yesterday "I'll never go back after what happened on Saturday night." That was based on the unwelcoming attitude of the manager and the rush they were given so the restaurant could close.

The bottom line, imo, is that while they may think they're going to get more business by
"Americanizing" the restaurant, they may also lose a pool of regulars who appreciated what Roberto was doing. I don't own a restaurant but know people who do, and I appreciate how much work and money go in to making it a success. I hope A Mano can survive and that they maintain the quality of both food and atmosphere.

Bill, I hope you'll keep us posted if you have news of Roberto opening another place!

[John]

When I first went there, Roberto came to my table when I was eating, and we discussed our Italian heritage. A great guy.

[udse]

Good riddance to Roberto! He was very unaccommodating.

I had tried the pizza within the first few months that they opened and it was a soggy, tasteless mess.

Now I will revisit them!

[Ev]

Funny, we always found Roberto to be utterly charming! To the point where if you got him talking (esp about travel and/or Italy), it was tough to stop him, in fact.

But unaccommodating? Perhaps that's because you didn't want pizza cooked the AUTHENTIC way? If so, then yes, he wasn't accommodating. One friend of mine once asked if she could have more basil on the Margherita pizza, and he explained that in Naples, this is the way it is served, and that's what he was doing at A Mano. They also don't use pepperoni (salami or prosciutto instead), and only fresh mozzarella, in slices--not that fake shredded stuff sold in plastic zip-top bags in our local supermarkets. I have complete respect for a restaurateur who knows his food and stands by it. And in all of my visits there, I've never once had a soggy pizza. Never had to use any utensils to eat it, never had toppings slide off of it, and always find the crust cooked to perfection at the center and at the edges!
To each his/her own, I suppose.

[udse]

The pizza was so soggy that it would have been impossible to eat it without a fork and knife. What a mess.

Having lived extensively in Naples I am happy to inform you that A Mano wasn't even close to the real thing.

Had Roberto been a bit more accommodating he might still have a job.

[Ev]

udse, if you know something that others don't seem to, please do share it here.

As I said, I never needed utensils to eat that pizza, nor has anyone else I've been with. You obviously had a different experience, but I/we have been going there at least once a month if not more often since the place opened.

[John]

I think we need a post/article on the new chef who will be replacing Roberto. My pizza was never soggy, btw.

[MiiMiiMii]

Judging from many of the postings on egullet as well as here, it appears, soggy or not, that the one thing that A Mano is is inconsistent. Some go and find a soggy mess and others find it perfect and not soggy at all. The problem may not be the interpretation of the person eating the pizza as much as the inconsistency on the part of the person preparing it.

[Ev]

The new chef has been there for a while (I've seen him there with Roberto), but speaks little/no English; I learned this when I tried to chat with him about my forthcoming pizza order. But that's not an issue--instead, I just told the waiter I wanted my pizza the way Roberto would have made it, and that's how it came out. I'll take that as a good sign!

[udse]

Well, if it is the same undercooked pizza that Roberto made I guess I will skip it or at least wait until I hear some reports of consistent well cooked pies.

[Ev]

That's probably best, udse.

[udse]

Ev...you should try to make it to Naples someday...so that you understand what I mean.

[udo]

the pizza sucked....then this arse clown wanted to run a school on pizza making....johns of norwood is good pizza...at least you could bet the horses with a slice....

[I am not a chef]

My experience at A Mano has always been uniformly positive. The service was a joke when they first opened, and it didn't improve tremendously, but the pizza was excellent. I found the slightly soft middle to be a perfect way to enjoy the great flavor of the dough they used. Too crispy, and the flavor would be just that; crispy, but without any other flavor. The toppings were always first rate, and the pride that Roberto obviously took in his cooking was clearly evident. I hope that the new chef is as dedicated as the old, and that whatever changes he makes are stylistic, and not rooted in a desire to improve the bottom line. That, I fear, will make A Mano just another pizza joint, and we have plenty of those already.

[original neapolitan]

well,
many speak, but not many seem to know much about it (usde).
I was born and raised in Napoli and I still go back no less than 4 times a year. Let me tell you, both Roberto's and the new guy's pizza are as close as it can be to authentic neapolitan pizza. If I have to compare, I have been there twice since the new guy and both times I had a stomach indigestion after eating pizza. It has to with the way the dough raises. It happens to me in some places in Napoli as well. Roberto's dough was much lighter and easier to digest.
The restaurant athmosphere has always benn "cold", but now it's really bad. At least Roberto gve a more charme to the place.
I love neapolitan pizza and I will defitely try go there again, even with the stomach indigestion. But please let me know if Roberto will open up a new place. I will be there.

[debbie]

After reading the article in the paper about a few changes Amano made, i decided to give it another try.
I ate there last night and found the pizza different, for the better that is. It was more cooked as to prior experiences at Amano. The gnocchi dish was excellent, Im sure the new pizza maker and the new chef will bring forth Amano in a better direction. Best of Luck!

[udse]

Neopolitan: You are going to continue going to a restaurant that repeatedly causes you indigestion? Is that the similar authentic experience that you get from the pizza in Napoli?

[Ann]

Neopolitan: Now that the new chef and pizza maker added to the menu maybe the next experience at Amano will be to your expectations.
I think the additions to the menu was a great idea! As for the pizza, its definatly better now. Who wants to eat soggy, wet pizza anyway? As a customer, i like the changes. Good Job!

[Ev]

I'm glad you're happy Ann, but some of us never found A Mano's pizza to be soggy or wet. It was just right-soft, flavorful, and cooked perfectly.
When I reheated my leftovers last week the crust was too hard for me. Oh, well. I'll just have to wait for Roberto to open up another place, I guess!

[udse]

I have a hunch that Roberto won't be resurfacing in the NYC area in the future. One certainly couldn't consider his time in Ridgewood to be a success.

[Ev]

Well it's obvious that YOU don't consider his time in Ridgewood to be a success, but there are many of us who feel otherwise. If you ask the folks in Pittsburgh if they miss him, you'll hear a resounding yes as well (based on what I've read)! Different crusts for different folks...

[udse]

Well, I will use the quote from the second article here on A Mano..."But for all its authenticity, co-owner Jerry Turci said, A Mano was struggling, and not just to bring customers into its Chestnut Avenue storefront. The restaurant had gotten a reputation for being stubborn, resistant to adapt to customers' needs, accept criticism or execute a creative vision."
No customers=FAILURE